July 23-29

23rd July Sunday

Such a peaceful quite gorge and only the birds to listen to here. Billy slept outside all night and never made a sound. We decided not to put out the awning tonight or the shade cloth which is maybe why Billy went over to Nev's camper trailer for the shade cloth.

The cliffs are extremely red with the contrast of green spinifex clumps dotted all over the hills and ground, with the blue skies makes for a beautiful scenery.

This morning Sue cooked some scones for all of us for morning tea.

We have only spent one night here at Glen Herring Gorge, we would like to have spent more time but we have 378 kms to travel to Tom Price today, so it’s a bigger day of driving than normal. This is so we have minimal driving to the kennels on Monday for Billy at 8.30am.

Exiting the creek was surprisingly a bit easier than when we came in last night(video), and noticed all the other caravans have also left early.

137 kms of dirt and gravel before we get back onto sealed roads.
Morning tea around 9.30 was decided, and we would stop on a hilltop overlooking the Great Northern Hwy with a view of the road trains. Unfortunately, the spinifex was everywhere, and poor Billy could not avoid getting his little paws spiked. We ended up putting him back in the car where he was much happier, while we enjoyed our coffee and scones. Beautiful wild flowers growing and covering the hills in purple, red, yellow, cream and some Sturt desert peas growing.

The scenery is breathtaking with the massive ranges that we pass through and over, many road trains use this highway transporting iron ore. We had our lunch on a view point at Tognoli here in the Pilbara region. After here we continue to Tom Price town, we stopped and had a look around and found our water to refill the tanks as Nev and Robyn caught up with us as well. It wasn’t too late in the afternoon so looking for a Wiki camp wasn’t an issue, so following Nameless Valley Rd we located Tiger Eye pool camp site. It was a dry river bank, flat and was just fine for one night.

24th July Monday

We are leaving a bit early this morning as we must be at the kennels for Billy between 8-8.30

As we reached the carpark for Tom Price kennels all you could hear was one dog with a high-pitched bark…- Billy was not impressed. We met the lady who looks after them she explained she is here in the morning and back in the afternoon to exercise them and food.

So we are able to collect Billy in the afternoon between 4-4.30 on Wednesday which will give us more time in Karijini NP.

We met up with N&R in the Coles carpark after we both did a quick top up of food, then we located a mobile coffee van for morning tea.

Back on the road again we drove a short distance before finding a side road to empty our grey water tank and hope our vinegar and bi carb solution worked.

Whilst here a lady with her three children waved us down as her battery went flat in the car, so we jump started the battery and she was very thankful.

After here we continued towards Karijini NP to acquire permits and passes.

We are in a double site number 112, red dirt, drop toilets, no fires, no generators. N&R plan to cook their lamb roast and veges in the weber tonight.

SEE SEPARATE KARIJINI BLOG.

27th July Thursday

Slept in this morning as no rush to go early. The plan for today is to make our way towards Hammersley Gorge. The walk down to the swim hole was only 300m and worth the walk down the ragged rock steps.

For us to get into Hammersley National Park we drove Neville’s 4wd and trailer down and they stayed back at the rest stop just outside of the park for us with Billy, then they went in.

After lunch we continued onto a more interesting but slightly dangerous area where they once did asbestos mining at Wittenoon.  We have second thoughts about going into the area as we wizz past DANGEROUS ASBESTOS MINING signs……goodbye world. I read in Wiki camps the gorge you can camp at but it was an old posting way back in Oct 2012 so those people have probably passed away since then.

The road is very long, corrugated and loose to drive on, but we have let our tyres down coming onto this road before Hammersley anyway. Neville got his drone out along this road and shot some footage of us coming along in the dust, and once again the BT and car are red.

We venture into Wittenoon and pass through the old existing town and most of the roads are still in place but deteriorated badly with ruts and pot holes. Some gorges come into view as we cross a causeway with flowing water and Neville is on the radio saying he has found a camp spot. Surprisingly there are a few other campers here which is a small comfort.

The BT grumbles over the river sand and comes to a halt as we do some tree excavation to fit through.

Once safely over the other side we level the van best we can and start to unpack. Before long we have a local lady come past with her dog and informs us of the mining that ceased in 1966  in this area, and she believes the asbestos is more unsafe in Karijini. While she was here she put in a net to catch freshwater crayfish. Before she left pulled up the net and she had caught at least 8 and a small catfish that she threw back. We can see fragments of blue asbestos all over this ground so best not disturb it more than what we already have by driving on it and causing dust.

Billy is in heaven as he sits and plays in the clear water right into the late afternoon. The cliffs are very spectacular and being so close to them is amazing. So this afternoon we tried our luck with catching some freshwater crayfish. Neville manufactured up a bag and put a stick inside to keep it apart and placed a small tin of tuna inside, attached a rope and tied it to a tree. As the photo shows we caught at least 30 within half an hour and Neville cooked the bigger ones up and we all tried some. They tasted like prawns and were okay to eat.

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So very quite here, we doubt there will be anyone else coming this way tonight. The only sound are the frogs and a few birds chirping in the still night air. The sky appears so big with the stars dotted everywhere.

28th July Friday.

This morning we are moving on from Wittenoom, but firstly have to make a few manoeuvres until the BT can get out of this river bed. We travel out of the camp site and not even 5 minutes into the drive we come across an even better camp site with a nicer creek which would have been the better spot. We continue to have a look around at what is left of this old ghost town with remnants of roads, cement house slabs and old pipes etc. We see some people are actually living here in some of these houses that have no power which means they have to generate their own somehow, and unsure of water.

As we re-enter the main part of the road to leave we see a convoy of three caravans including a smaller BT departing too. 

We continue on through the broken roads looking for the old library which apparently still stands with books inside on the shelves. We could not locate the library so headed out on to the Roebourne Wittenoom Road which started out ok but as we continued after morning tea, the road deteriorated into corrugations and loose rocks. We followed a sign to Mt. Billroth Homestead hoping this could be a place for lunch and get out of the heat. This old homestead was just a ruin now but interesting to look at. The construction was made of mud bricks but the termites had eaten away the majority of timber posts and the roof sheeting metal was all falling down. A fireplace was inside and of course vandals can’t resist but carve initials everywhere.

On and on we went on a never-ending road until  2.00pm for a lunch stop. From here N&R are driving to Millstream NP for a few days. We will take the Karratha road and hope to find a camp spot for us.

Along the way we passed a causeway over the Harding River and decided to take this opportunity to wash the BT and car, pumping up the river water with our hose and filter which works so well. The floor mats and shade cloth were washed as well, even Billy had a swim to cool down. The red dirt that flowed from all our gear was incredible, not to mention any asbestos rocks and dust was wise to wash out. Neville and Robyn also turned up while we were on the causeway and decided to join us in cleaning their vehicle and camper. As we were there for over an hour we had no choice but to listen to constant hauling of iron ore trains that never stopped. We were getting honks from the train drivers whilst washing into the late afternoon. 

The sun was just starting to go down as we finished the washing, so we packed everything away and drove to a spot we found prior in the afternoon on the Harding River just up from Red Dog Gorge Millstream with an adjacent main railway hauling iron ore 24 hours a day.  These iron ore trains can be 2.5kms long and require 3 locomotives to haul 35,000 tonnes of ore at speeds up to 80km/hour. We counted at least one every 15 minutes through the afternoon into the night.

After dinner, we were all feeling exhausted from a very rough driving day and look forward to sleep.

29th July Saturday

We all slowly emerged from our slumber and went outside to greet the morning sunshine. Billy of course was happy to see Neville and Robyn were awake too, and went about sniffing for food.

Our plan this morning is to finish washing the car at the causeway after N&R leave so they can continue onto Karratha for a few days rest. We follow the Karratha signs and locate the visitors centre and buy a couple of postcards and must pay $1 for 50 litres of water here as well. 

We book into the RV site for a two day stay, and settle in for the very warm afternoon, but at least the breeze is here and Billy has found a spot under the van on the cement. We decide to go for a short drive and check out what is here in Karratha. We drive onto a beach with intentions of swimming Billy, and just as we are about to let him swim a family said they had just seen a large shark very close to the shore and they had to out their dog on a lead…..so no swim for Billy and back in the car.

Back at camp we catch up with N&R and we discuss the plans for Sunday travel day.


More to come soon. 

Karijini

This blog will be just for Karijini. 

After setting up camp at Dale's camp ground with Nev and Rob we went for the Karijini NP walk and it was beautiful, we found it easy enough and just took our time walking. (see attached walk diagram)

Sue and I selected the Class 4 walk which encompassed steep climbs and twisting rock descents down into gorges and swim holes. The most spectacular was the Fern Pool with crystal emerald water and cold. We took our time and rested at the beautiful water holes.

The total walk was 9.2 kms.

Some of the pictures below are from the other gorges. 

We all miss Billy so much.

25th July Tuesday

This morning after a yummy breakfast of bacon and eggs, croissants and coffee we clean up, put the boots back on again and we all jump in the 100 series Landcruiser.

The plan today is to walk or see what is left of the gorges here from the Weano Recreation area.

Encompassing the lookouts that we viewed were Joffre lookout, Junction Pool lookout, Oxer lookout, Upper Weano gorge, Lower Weano gorge.

We also drove around to the Eco Lodge where we shouted N&R  a coffee and muffin , before driving onto more wonderful corrugations for about 43 kms.

The walk Sue and I did was classified as a Class 5 down to Hancock Gorge. Neville and Robyn decided to choose a shorter walk and met us a few hours later back in the carpark.

Estimated 1.5km-2hr return.

This trail is for very experienced bushwalkers., but we just took our time and everything was good. The trail led towards the edge of the gorge where there are numerous natural obstacles. Negotiating uneven rock steps to reach the ladder, we descend to the gorge floor and walk downstream towards Kermits Pool and rested in the Amphitheatre. Just further upstream where we didn’t go was the Spider walk, which was a tight squeeze using hands and feet on the walls. We spoke to other walkers before heading back towards the ladder and the steep climb of rock steps to the top.  The sun was quite hot as we were walking back on the track and couldn’t wait for the shade.

Whilst waiting for N&R we chatted to some lovely French girls who have been exploring Australia for the last 4.5 months.

We had lunch with N&R before driving back to camp and relaxing.

We decided to pick up Billy tomorrow morning as we can’t leave him in the cage any longer.

26th July Wednesday

6 degrees

By 6.30am we were on the road and heading towards Tom Price for Billy at 8am.

As we exited Dales Campground they had a sign out advising the campground was full, which explained why we saw some tents set up in the visitor’s centre yesterday.

We arrived at the kennels 8.15am and saw Billy in the exercise yard which was great to see, he saw us then ran to the gate to greet us. It was locked and we had to wait for the assistant to unlock it before we could really cuddle him. Billy could not wait to get into the back of the car and had a huge drink of water.

From here we went and had a coffee and light lunch before food shopping, fuel, clothes washing in laundromat then back to the camp site at Tiger Eye Pool where we were on 23rd July. Just as we were leaving N&R drove into the carpark and greeted Billy with enthusiasm which he loved.

Camp oven scones for late afternoon tea.

July 16-22

This morning we are moving on after spending two rest days at Stanley.  Such a long straight road this Great Northern Hwy with really nothing to see or stop at until morning tea, which is just a side off the main road.

The turn off to Eighty Mile Beach caravan park is about 8kms down a dirt road from this point, but they charge $45 per night and you can’t swim in the ocean and no dogs, so we won’t be having a look this time. Sue found some interesting formations on a rock which I will be adding to Sue's collection.

Pardoo Roadhouse was the next fuel and accommodation for those travellers who wanted to stop. We are aiming for De Grey River today and see what is there and possibly camp.

We drove in and around this massive area that we assume is council owned, and judging by how many people are camped here would have to be in the hundreds. Decided we won’t camp with the hundreds of generators running and took a drive over to the southern side of the riverbank where we found a lovely isolated spot with grass overlooking the river bed.

We wanted to use the river water but not too keen on the throwing a bucket into the deep dark lagoon where crocs may be lurking, so Russell dug a hole closer to the bank and down to the water level to see if we could pump up water using a sand spear technique.  Success and now we have an endless supply of fresh river water to use at our leisure. Billy was in heaven with this green grass and having been hosed until he was soaking wet was even more fun.

There was not enough time in the day to wash Billy, the car or caravan today, but plan to do all that tomorrow. So quiet here sitting and looking across to the other riverbank, and its hard to think that there are so many people spread out on the other side and we can’t see them.

Other than the odd traffic passing above us it is a pleasant place for a few days with no internet or mobile service.

17^th July Monday.

Peaceful nights sleep and woke to the birds chirping in the trees.

Russell went for a walk with Billy across the dry river bed this morning and checked out more tracks.

On their return, we made tea and both of us sat in the sun while Billy investigated lots of interesting smells. We washed the BT after breakfast and the amount of red dirt that got hosed off was amazing. Sue washed the flyscreens on all windows inside and out as well as the external windows. Everything has come up like new, apart from the scratches across the Perspex windows (some already existing and new ones).

Billy was washed next and he didn’t seem to mind too much- and now smells clean and shiny. He is up to date with his Advantix, as we are coming into so many different areas of WA to camp we need to be vigilant with paralysis ticks.

Billy and us went for a walk over the bridge here at De Grey and viewed the other camp ground and it appeared many have left, compared to the hoards that were there on Sunday.

We had a few people cross the riverbank on their daily walk stopped and chatted to us, wanting to know how we got here, amazed to know we came down such a rutted part of the track. The afternoon went nice and slow and gave us time to work out if we are staying here tomorrow.

Tonight we have packed away most articles outside like all the water hoses, buckets and chairs so it doesn’t take too long in the morning, as we have decided to head to Port Hedland for a few days.

We need to get mobile service to make a few phone calls and food supplies.

18^th July Tuesday

14 degrees last night.

Another glorious morning here at De Grey river as we have our breakfast and watch Billy absolutely loving his freedom here. 

We arrived in Port Hedland around 10am filled our water tanks prior to setting up in the dust bowl they call the overflow area. We estimate over 50 vans here now, but constantly filling up. We chatted to a few travellers who came past to say hello, wanted to know what part of Queensland we were from -and mentioned they were from Redcliffe and another couple were from Morayfield….such a small world really.

 Port Hedland is two hundred kilometres north of Karratha and famous for its massive resource industry, long trains, big ships and salt piles. It is the second largest town in the Pilbara region of WA, with the highest tonnage port in Australia

We have full mobile service and started receiving all messages, so we are back in the land of the living.

When we stopped we noticed our external cover that goes over the fridge is missing, Russell must have not put it back on properly and it fell off. We took a drive into the south side of Port Hedland for a few things and had lunch out before heading off towards some sort of beach here, although not an impressive beach by any standards the water was a very blue. Our trek across the soft sand was very undulating from many car tracks and quite hot so we didn’t stay that long and it was just for Billy to have a dip.

After here we took a tourist drive, and noticed most houses are made from corrugated iron, not brick or timber and all pergola roofs are insulated from the heat. Apparently, it wont rain for the next three months hence the plastic green grass in some yards.

19^th July Wednesday

Another rest day deciding to hang around Port Hedland. Although we did go for a short drive again to the information place for pamphlets on Karijini NP, Marble Bar area.

We booked Billy into Tom Price kennels for two days on 24^th and 25^th July so we can explore the National Park.

20^th July Thursday

This morning we were visited by QUBE and Rio Tinto trucks and workers, offering information on what they do involving their jobs and safety. Sue got to sit in a Mack truck which was awesome, the interior of the cab was massive and so many buttons and gauges. Everyone in the campground was welcome to some freebee stubby coolers, sunscreen and thermos coffee cups.

We spoke with a lovely young lady Emma who is a Health and Safety officer with QUBE, she was informing us she also once resided in Brisbane but her husband got offered a position in Port Hedland so this is where they came to and enjoy the small town.

After this we are packing up and making our way towards a camp spot Doolena Gorge, Newman Tabba Tabba RD, Marble Bar. Two other campers already here and another two behind us when we stopped. It took a bit of time trying to level the van on uneven ground and all over bull dust, the shade cloth flooring does nothing to keep it out. Billy was clean prior to coming here, but will now be a red dog. The river is beautiful so will carefully check it out for any possible crocs.

We walked across to the other side of the river bank and collected firewood for the cooking of our camp oven meal tonight, which of course is our delicious puff pastry meat pie.

We are pretty exhausted so after we eat this meal and make a cuppa we are off to sleep.

21 July Friday

Had a nice sleep in with no noise of any cars, trains or machinery to cause headaches, which we are grateful for not being in Port Hedland anymore.

Russell moved the van a bit this morning to a better spot and out of the bull dust, and so much better.

Through the day we had many people stop and chat, take photos of the gorge before moving on again.

One friendly older couple in a 100 series Landcruiser came in and had lunch- with stories of where they have been and the disaster breakdown of their Ultimate off-road van, stuck on the side of a remote part of Greg’s track for six days before recovery arrived. They were very well prepared and carried more than enough food, water and recovery gear so they were not concerned. They think the camper van hit a large termite mound and broke the suspension arm on the trailer. Fortunately, they have satellite phone and could arrange assistance. The tow was over 4 days and the expense out of pocket was close to $10,000.

It was uncanny they were talking to us about this, as last night we had a tow truck with an ultimate van on the back, which happened to be theirs. So it has taken the recovery six days to get them from the track and another few days to here, before the tow truck continues to Port Hedland for repair. Their insurance will pay for accommodation up to 12 days so they were on their way to organise somewhere to stay in Port Hedland.

Billy has been enjoying the river here at Doolena through the day to cool off.

22^nd July Saturday

Cool morning again as we wake up and enjoy the beautiful view.

We had the owners of this massive property come for a visit and said there are no crocodiles in this creek at all.

A whole flock of pelicans landed on the water this morning, there would have been at least 30 or more.

After breakfast, we all have packed up and driving to Marble Bar to look at what they have to offer. We stopped along the highway to take pictures of the iron etched signs welcoming travellers to Marble Bar(camera). We had brochures on Marble Bar we picked up from Port Hedland information centre, so I am reading up on what is there.

Once in MB we required  coffee and morning tea – called Harry’s Clappin Mad which we found very easily and  sat outside on wooden seats discussing the plan for the day.

We decided we would travel for the day and leave the trailer etc back in Marble Bar.

History of Marble Bar:

Australia’s Hottest Town during summer months when the mercury climbs to over 38 degrees for days on end. The record is 160 consecutive days over 38.7 degrees recorded in the sweltering summer of 1923-24.

Government buildings were one of the most impressive architecture in MB, built of local stone 1895, and today it still provides accommodation for Government departments.

Police station, Mines Department, Courthouse and the small souvenir/ café store are the main buildings.

We drove out to the WW2 Air Base approximately 25kms south east of MB, where we spent most of the day among the crumbling remains of the best kept secret of WW2.  Crumbling foundations of the campsite were visible, and following the map we located most of the other remnants including old relics, the airstrip, bomb site was fascinating.

We noticed the air temperature was very hot so we looked for shade under a tree where we had lunch. From here we have to head back into MB to find Comet Gold Mine and have a look at the Jasper pools and take a sample rock with us.

The afternoon has crept up on us so we head back to the cars and make our way in to the later afternoon towards whatever campsite we can find.

Following Wiki we assess a few with Neville in the lead it is easier for him to divert off the road and check it out before we come along. So after about 50kms south of MB we pulled into Glen Herring Gorge with a few other caravans already here, not really a huge area, but we cross a small creek to the other side to our own site. A pretty camp with a rocky base and only enough room for two of us.

Like clockwork a fire was soon glowing and we all sat around with a cuppa and relaxed.

I think it is going to be a very quiet night.

We just missed the sunset shot - sorry about that.

More next week, maybe.