Sep 10-16

10th September Sunday
Week 21
We are just over the half way mark on our journey and so much more to see. We enjoy staying at these 72-hour free camps when we can find them, as this allows us to stop long enough and look around the area. It also cuts down on the fuel usage and our budget has time to recover a little.
This morning there was fog surrounding the camp ground and visibility was nil to the ocean. It wasn’t long before the sun came out clearing away the heavy fog and again a beautiful day ahead.
Billy had that many swims I lost count today, and that doesn’t include the sneaky swims he took by himself when we weren’t with him. We went for a long walk with Billy, of course running ahead and often returning at a full gallop back towards us as if we were just to slow for him.
Finally, we are having a fire to cook a puff pastry meat pie, and with sunset over the ocean what a wonderful place.

11th September Monday
Leaving this morning and we will all miss the beach that’s for sure. Our plan is to head back towards Dongara- Denison and wash Billy.
Sue spent over an hour washing all the salt, prickles and sand out of his hair before she could even use any shampoo. Billy resigned himself to the fact he was going to be clean today!
We spent most of our day relaxing in the Denison seaside until the afternoon, when we slowly made our way towards another our next destination, wherever that maybe.

12th September Tuesday
Off this morning and driving back into Mingenew taking another look around. Came across this Yandanooka Hall of historic interest.

A field of colour.

Leaving here we continue to look at a Talc Mine site located outside of Three Springs WA. This mine is the oldest and most productive talc mine in the southern hemisphere, and the second most productive talc mine in the world. They produce 240,000 tonnes annually are owned by the Rio Tinto company.

13th September Wednesday
A quiet night spent at Three Springs, even with at least nine other travellers camped around the park.
The first very small town we drive in and stay for a few hours is Carnamah- situated 307 kms north of Perth, via the Midland road. This town has a population of 846 and covers an area of 2,800km2, mainly industries of cropping, sheep, cattle with mining of mineral sands and gas exploration to Eneabba.
From here we pass through Coorow keeping a close eye out for more wildflowers on the edges of the roads before we reach Watheroo and stop for some lunch.
Our end of day destination is Moora and we are glad to find somewhere to stop. We finally have mobile range after none for a few days, but have been fortunate with TV reception in most destinations.
 14th September Thursday
Not in a rush to leave this morning, as we have a few phone calls to make while the range is good, as well Moora township is only 7kms where will top up some food supplies before deciding where to go.
As we follow the Dandaragan Road out we are only 200 kms north of Perth, but have no intentions of moving any closer just yet, with so much to see we plan to stay more coastal if we can.
We found a point of interest at Yandin Lookout with spectacular ranges and a wildflower garden.

The garden walk was filled with amazing scents and the bees were very active.
15th September Friday.
We left a bit earlier from Yandin Lookout and started driving towards Wedge Island beach, where we do plan to stay if we can. It wasn’t long before we reached the turn off Indian Ocean Drive, and followed the notes scribbled down on a piece of paper, given to Russell by a radio friend who does work here on Wedge Island on how to find this place.
The condition of the track as we entered slowly disintegrated from a formed base to a sandy clay track, pitted with some holes and boggy bits if you chose to go that way which would have made it all fun and interesting.
Now these directions we followed on this scrap of paper were: Follow the bitumen to the cray fishing hut- road conditions change to limestone tracks- continue a further 200-300m look for Exmouth St sign- and the helipad-should be a telephone found box- next will be vacant land- look for number 76 on a hut- go and see Annie.

We found Annie who was a lovely 80-year-old lady living in her shack for over 40 years, and she offered to happily let us stay on her property for a night. Billy made friends with her rescue dog Boof who was at least four years old and glad to have a different play mate.



We chatted to Annie’s neighbour and got the run down of the place, and how everyone came to be living in shacks on such an idyllic lifestyle. We were asked to join them later in the night for drinks and a gossip.
Billy was fascinated by the carpet python that was visible in Annie’s garden sprawled across plants, not worried about us in the least.

Wedge Island Beach is located north of Lancelin and south of Cervantes on the WA coast. This wedge-shaped mainland is 400mtrs long and is just off the point. The island itself is a declared nature reserve but there are no signs saying you can’t have a dog.
The settlement is now home to approximately 350 beach shacks on unvested land that are used by cray fisherman and holiday-goers. It is estimated that 14,000 individuals may use these shacks at Wedge beach at any given time, and with no shops, mains electricity or running water generators are common.
These shack leases were considered being removed in 2010 but it remains in place today for residents, who by the way pay rates and other essential bills. The shack leases were due to expire on 30th June 2011 but the Wedge community won a one- year renewal for all occupied facilities. Currently the 2017 leases are being continued yearly, and residents are aware they may have no home in coming years.
We went for a walk to the beach with Billy before coming back to the caravan for lunch. So the afternoon slowly went by as we enjoyed the ocean lifestyle.
Tonight, we walked the very short distance that took all of 3 minutes to Annie’s shack where we were welcomed inside as was Billy. It amazed me to see the transformation of the interior compared to the exterior. It was modestly comfortable with a new style kitchen adjoining the lounge room where she obviously entertains a lot of friends.  She is such a lovely person and I feel humbled to have met such a lady living her life to the fullest.

16th September Saturday
After our farewell to Annie and Boof her rescue dog, we continued our way to Cervantes where we will spend most of our day. Cervantes is a small coastal fishing town in WA, North of Perth and known for it’s lobsters. Cervantes is a gateway to Nambung NP, home to the Pinnacles, and a desert area with unique ancient rock pillars amid shifting sand dunes.
The main agenda is motor racing on this weekend for Russell, which will entail most of this day at least, leaving Sue to find something to do.
We find a place to park on the side of the road, just outside the caravan park while Russell searches for TV reception, Sue takes a quick walk to the small selection of shops which consists of a newsagent/ information, small supermarket and butcher.
While we were here the laundry may as well be done to fill in time, using the caravan park facilities, and while waiting for that to be finished Billy was happy to go on many walks to the beach- although no dogs were allowed at all we found a little out of the way and less populated spot for him to swim.
Mid afternoon and Billy sleeps lazily on his bed outside soaking up the warm sunshine, which hopefully will dry his salty fur.

Sep 3 - 9

3rd September Sunday
Father’s Day
This morning after an early morning walk on the beach with Billy as the wind was very cool, it appears the ocean swell last night ripped up a lot more seaweed and spread it up on the high tide mark. 

Today is our last day here at Seven Mile Beach (only allowed a 72-hour stay) so we shall be moving on, and our last day with Neville and Robyn as they make their way towards home. We will miss them a lot as will Billy. We have all again, shared so many incredible and memorable experiences together on this holiday venture over their last two months of travel. From the outback of the Gibb River road to the beautiful stunning Ningaloo Reef and so much in between we hope to plan another holiday with them in the not too far distance.

Packed and ready to go we all head off into town and share our last coffee with them, for at least six months until we get home. After our goodbyes, we take a short drive into Denison and what a very beautiful beach. We have lunch there before heading through into Dongara where we will spend one night in an RV 24hr rest stop. This would have to make the least kms travelled from leaving in the morning to stopping in the afternoon 14kms.!! This is mainly due to only 72 hours allowed at the beach stay, we want mobile range & TV range tonight.




4th September Monday
10 degrees
Leaving Dongara and heading towards Geraldton today for a few days, but will sight see through Greenough and The Walkaways.

We followed the signs to Alinta Wind farms and Mumbida Wind farms, which comprised of dozens of turbines reaching 78 metres high. These are Western Australia’s largest renewable energy generators. The viewing area and interpretive signs provide a fantastic outlook over the farmland below.
From here we continue to the Greenough historic settlement constructed between 1863 and 1913, and provide a rare insight into the early settlement of agricultural lands. It is here we decide to enjoy a coffee and scones for morning tea out under the pergola. The green pastures were home to many alpacas that roamed free sunning themselves at leisure.

A few kilometres further on the Brand Highway we located another popular icon & photo opportunity which was The Leaning Tree. Buffeted by prevailing southerly winds, the leaning tree of Greenough (Eucalyptus Camaldulensis) or Red River gum is found throughout Southern Australia growing along watercourses and on flood plains. It is only on the windswept Greenough Flats that the tree develops its distinctive leaning shape.

Our next attraction is the Greenough River Mouth &Devlin Pool- located 10 kilometres south of Geraldton or four hours drive north of Perth. These picturesque spots are popular with nature enthusiasts as they incorporate a nature trail which winds along the river banks and though the surrounding bush land. The river flows past Greenough, renowned for being the best-preserved town in Australia and the coastal town of Geraldton.

From here we continue to Geraldton and locate a spot to stay in town, and as caravan set up is minimal it allows us to take a few relaxing hours enjoying a walk through the shops before returning.
Sue decides she is need of some retail therapy and heads off to the shops, meanwhile back at camp Russell puts his feet up & enjoys chatting to the neighbours.
In the later part of the afternoon we are told a whale and calf are spotted just in the harbour close to us so we all take a walk to the lookout and observe. It was amazing to see such a grand creature slowly swimming through the harbour. 

5th September Tuesday
We were planning to leave Geraldton today but decided to stay another day as we have lots to do.
The windy weather has continued this morning but hope it settles down later in the day.


After breakfast, we grab all our washing and drive to the laundromat, and while it is washing we take a leisurely walk up town to the arcades. After the washing is done we drop into the butcher and head back to camp and have lunch. The washing is all hung out and dried very fast in this wind, which I estimate dried within half an hour. Russell does some checks on the car and van and we relax into the afternoon.
We decide to take a short 12km drive up to Mills Lookout that has spectacular scenery of the Chapman Valley.


6th September Wednesday
This morning we are undecided whether to move on or not, so will see what needs to be done in Geraldton first.
After breakfast, we walk into town although very overcast and cool it is still a lovely place to be on holidays.

7th September Thursday
Our last day here at Geraldton and will be a shame to move on. We both found Geraldton a beautiful town with wonderful beaches and foreshores, very well kept and clean. The shops are modern with most things that Brisbane offer just seems less hectic, although paid parking in a lot of carparks has happened. We did however locate a few carparks that were free and some had 3-hour parking but were a distance from the main shop areas.
One of the most memorable and picturesque views for me would have to be from Mills Point lookout overlooking Chapman Valley.
After some last-minute tasks like fuel, gas cylinders and water tanks we head out of Geraldton following the Brandt Hwy and continue through South Greenough and Dongara again, continuing to find more places to look at. We want to stay on the coastal fringes so will have to persist with these winds which will be interesting trying to place the van in the correct position.
We follow Wiki and decide on Cliff Heads South (72 hour stay) off the Indian Ocean Drive about 6km South of the Brandt Hwy.

Billy loves the beach and the wind, often re locating himself out of shelter to be in breeze.
This afternoon we have watched a few more people come in and set up camp, it is a truly beautiful spot for a 72 hour stay for free camping.


8th September Friday
This morning I went for a very long walk with Billy on the beach. There are very few shells on this beach but a lot of seaweed washed up on shore.

The Ranger came around and had a chat, remembers us from Seven Mile Beach and apparently where we next camped in at Dongara 24-hour rest area. He patrols all these camp grounds to ensure no one out stays their time limits. Most of these free camp spots you must be self-sufficient with water and all amenities as not every camp offers toilet, water, bins etc.
The day stayed nice and sunny as more people drove in to the camp ground, I suppose being the weekend soon this is a popular place for the locals.
A Bushtracker camped beside us this afternoon so I am sure we will have some conversations at some stage and stories to tell.
A lazy kind of afternoon with nothing much happening as we ease into night fall, the sunsets here on over the water on Cliff Head are spectacular.


9th September Saturday
After breakfast, we walk down to the beach with Billy and the water is nice and calm with an off-shore breeze, making it a perfect swim for Billy. A few families were enjoying the clear waters and doing bit of fishing as well.
After throwing numerous sticks in the water for Billy and not receiving any back, we realise Billy has lost his confidence in swimming out. So, Sue re trains Billy with encouragement and walking into the water to show him it’s all safe, and then he finally starts to swim out. It was great to see him happy to constantly show us what he can do now, so much so, all day he was sneaking off down the pathway towards the ocean and just waited for us.
Thankfully the sun stayed out and dried his fur but what a mess he his. After swimming, he runs back to roll in the sand then rolls on the clay road that turns his fur into a dull dry powdery feel. He has so much sand trapped within that hair it literally falls out when he walks, and the matted knots!!
There is no point even trying to wash him until we leave, as we don’t have that much water to spare. We will have to plan a trip back into Dongara- Denison on Monday, where we can re fill our water tanks then wash him.

Aug 27 - Sep 2

27th August Sunday
Leaving this morning from Lake Narleen and driving a very short 20kms into Cue and staying in the one and only caravan park for two nights, very cheap at $20 per night.
Quite windy so both shade cloth walls are going up to see how they go, in preparation for Tassie.


In the afternoon Russell and I and Billy went for the walk around Cue to see the historic town.
Cue is a small town in the Mid-West region of WA famous for discovering gold in 1892. By around 1900, Cue boasted a population of about 10,000 but WW1 and The Great Depression caused the population to dwindle and by 1933 the numbers dropped to fewer than 500.
Cue is a Heritage Listed town with 18 historical buildings to walk past.
Rain and wind is expected this afternoon and the sky is darkening.

28th August Monday
Still raining this morning and was nice to sleep in.
Russell and Neville will spend most of today over at Cue hall installing radio equipment, while Robyn Sue and Billy walk Cue township 2.7km consisting of the following buildings of which still stand today:
Gentleman’s Club ( Shire of Cue). Constructed in 1895. Restored and refurbished in 1985-86 and is now occupied by Cue Shire Council.
Old Goal. Built between 1896 and 1897. Closed down in 1914 but used for lock ups until the early 1930’s. Has been unused since 1977.
Pensioner’s Huts. In 1955 the Cue Shire resolved to apply for a vacant lot for pensioners. Between August and December 1958 six of the smaller buildings were removed from the former hospital at placed here.
Cue Primary school. The first Cue Primary School was built in 1896. A second larger classroom was added in 1898 to cater for 40 additional students. A third building was built in 1904 and these three buildings are still being used today.
Cue Shire Hall. The original Shire Hall was burnt to the ground on the morning of March 4th 1955 after being struck by lightning. The Hall here today started out as change rooms at the Bog Bell gold mine. This building was dismantled and brought to Cue, and was officially opened in 1957.
Masonic Lodge. Built in 1899 of timber and galvanized (corrugated) iron, with a pressed iron interior. Murchison Lodge 22 was consecrated on 21st April 1897, and regular meetings were held in the building from 1899 to 1979, when they were cancelled due to falling numbers. It now belongs to the National Trust (WA).
Old Municipal Chambers. Opened on 23rd September 1896.
Fire Station. The present building was not constructed until 1936 and its unremarkable style is typical of that time.

This afternoon after having walked through Cue and taking many photos, we settle into the afternoon, watching the sky darken again with incoming rain storms. We decide to leave the awning up with side walls and Billy to sleep outside. Well that was short lived, as the wind increased with rain Billy was again inside for the night.






29th August Tuesday.
Leaving Cue this morning plan today is to sightsee a few interesting places on the map of interest.
We head to Historic Big Bell Township first which is only about 37 kms from Cue, and what a fascinating history.
In November 1935, Premier Gold Mining Company annonunced that it would develop a mining operation at Big Bell. An agreement with the State Government in March 1936, to build a railway from Cue to the mine leases, signalled the birth of Big Bell township.
The township of Big Bell was gazetted in 1936, and at its peak in 1954 boasted a population of 850. A guide book of the time may have described the town as follows:
“The first impression one obtains of Big Bell townsite is the profusion of ornamental trees that surround residences. Trees are not plentiful on the arid plateau and ornamental trees are painstakingly tended. The streets are wide, as are the streets of all goldfields towns. Water from three Government water supply wells is reticulated throughout, and electricity is supplied from a modern plant. Residences, though small, are neatly furnished, the majority having a garden and boast at least one small patch of green lawn.
The shopping area is modern and caters for all demands. Films are shown three times weekly, there being two changes of programme. Mail services include air and surface several times weekly. Friday is market day, for the perishables arrive on that day from the metropolitan area…..The town’s list of social and sporting organisations is a formidable  one and would not disgrace a town of greater population…..Churches of various denominations have been built, while the only hotel is large and modern and caters excellently for the travelling public”.
Big Bell township declined rapidly following mine closures in 1955.
The below photos are of the church and what remains.

After spending  a few hours here at Big Bell, we continued on, following a map we were given to locate some unusual locations.



We passed many abandoned homesteads, some of which we drove onto and walked around.

Following the Dalgaranga Road we stopped at Walga Rock which is a 2km long monolith and featured a cave containing Aboriginal paintings. To us it looked like a mini Ayres Rock just longer and not as high.

It was here at Walga rock we stopped and had lunch, while Neville flew the drone to capture some amazing aerial shots on the top of the rock. Russell decided to walk to the top and confirmed there was water holes situated across the top, some only shallow but a few over a metre deep.

The next photo opportunity was a Meteorite Crater at Yalgoo estimated to be about 50,000 years old, this crater was not discovered until 1961.
Onwards we travelled and drove upon another abandoned homestead that captured our attention, as at first, we could not work out what type of farm it once was, until we walked into the old sheep shearing shed, and located the holding pens, dipping run and all the old farm equipment now destroyed.

                                                                 




It was astounding to see so much of someone’s once livelihood gone with only remnants remaining.
We leave the Dalgaranga area and decide to start looking for a place to camp for the night. Not as easy as first thought, the wind was very strong and we were all trying to locate a spot off the road and out of the wind. After a few attempts driving off road to old abandoned mines, we decided to head off the beaten track behind low shrub and a hill for wind protection.
Fantastic, it worked a treat and in no time, we had both vehicles, camper and BT set up, firewood gathered and alight while Robyn and Sue prepared dinner to eat around the nice warm fire. The night sky was filled with stars and the wind had disappeared leaving only the sound of insects calling.
It is going to be a cold night so we are all having the diesel heaters on for a warm sleep. Billy fell asleep on his bed beside the fire and was not too impressed when we woke him up…….but soon he realised he was sleeping inside the van we were forgiven I am sure.

30th August Wednesday
Heavy fog this morning rolling in and over our camp site- so pretty
Leaving Buangnoo Hill camp spot and continuing along the unsealed Dalgaranga Road to Chinaman’s Rock where we will stop for morning tea. We took a walk up this 20mtr rock which was a very easy climb and a great 360 views.  Billy found some water holes scattered across the top of Chinaman’s rock to take a dip in which some were quite deep. After here we drive a further 45kms on the Yalgoo Road which is also unsealed with boggy water holes to drive through as we trek towards Jokers Tunnel. This tunnel was apparently once dug by the joker miner syndicate. The tunnel passes through a hill and is over 100m long and is home to bats and poisonous snakes (entry at own risk).
We walked in the tunnel with headlamp on, video and torch in hand with Billy leading the way. The tunnel height was only about 1.8 mtrs high so we were stooped walking through. The smell of bats was overpowering but worth the walk in. The bats were very tiny and laid asleep in the crevices of the cave roof, although we did had a few flying past us when we continued deeper into the tunnel.

We stayed in the area for lunch and enjoyed the view of Narring Ranges. From here we do a circuit back through Yalgoo which encompassed very long unsealed roads between points of interest. We viewed more wildflowers and wreath flowers along the edges of the road.
This afternoon we are stopping at Old Canna camp on Offszanka Road ( Wubin-Mullewa road)Very large flat ground and we are the only ones here.
We have TV 😊




This is the camp for the night at Old Canna.

31st August Thursday
Leaving Old Canna and taking a sightsee through the small town on Canna before we leave. As we entered the township of Canna there was more camping here with an honesty box for electricity usage for the caravans that were already here.



We found an original red telephone box bit no phone and an old pump up petrol pump.
From here we head South to Morawa to have a look and see if we can buy a much-needed coffee.
The information centre was very helpful and recommended the local roadhouse for lovely homemade slices and good coffee. It was here Russell spent some time re-inflating the tyres as we will back on sealed roads all the way to Dongara.




Stopped in at the next town of Mingenew and what a pretty place. We were stopped in the street when walking with Billy with admirers wanting to pat him.
Sue purchased some handmade placemats for our table with Australian designs of animals and wildflowers from the visitors information centre.
We continue West towards Dongara where we will re fuel and start planning where we will stop for the night.
So we decide on Seven Mile beach Dongara for a few days- a 72 hour rest stop right beside the ocean.

1st September Friday
This morning the wind was fierce and patchy rain fell last night as well.
The Ranger also appeared asking Neville and Robyn to move their camper trailer up from the grass dune area and back onto the dirt, which was no problem.
We went over to help fold down their canvas and move some gear across as the wind was taking hold of everything.
So, after breakfast we head into town and pick up a few grocery items from the IGA before making our way back to camp.
The ocean swell increased through the day, but Billy still enjoyed staying on the sand waiting for someone to come and throw a stick into the rough water. The rest of the afternoon he dried off and fell asleep in the soft green grass.
We unfortunately spent most of the day inside the van just to keep out of the strong wind.
2nd September Saturday
The Saturday markets are on in Dongara town so we all are going to have a look, and stopped in at the Moreton Bay Coffee Café boasting a huge fig tree out the front “Coffee Tree”. We walked around town found the visitors centre, bakery, hardware, IGA, post office and a few other small shops.
Back at camp the sun has finally come out turning the ocean into a turquoise colour exposing shallow rocks. Further out to sea we can see massive waves and white caps breaking over an outer reef. We viewed these waves with binoculars and estimated the waves to be over ten metres high and they continued for kilometres crashing over and over with so much power.
Some people came over when we got back and discussed their travels with all of us whilst enjoying this amazing ocean view. Billy again has enjoyed the water and loves to spend his time relaxing on the beach waiting for anybody to throw a stick for him.
Quite a few more people came in the camp area this afternoon and we chatted to a lady who lives in this local area and owns four dogs, of which Billy was having a fun time playing with here at Seven Mile Beach.

Maybe we will never came home.